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Sangam
Around 7 km from Civil Lines, overlooked
by the eastern ramparts of the fort, wide flood plains and muddy banks
protrude towards the sacred Sangam. At the point at which the brown
Ganges meets the Greenish Yamuna, pandas (priests) perch on small
platforms to perform puja and assist the devout in their ritual
ablutions in the shallow waters. Beaches and ghats are littered with
the shorn hair of pilgrims who come to offer pind for their deceased
parents.
Boats to the Sangam, used by pilgrims
and tourists alike, can be rented at the ghat immediately east of the
fort, for the recommended government rate of Rs 12 per head. However,
most pilgrims pay around Rs 36 and you can be charged as much as Rs
150. Official prices for a whole boat are between Rs 100 and Rs 120
but can soar to more than Rs 250 during peak seasons. On the way to
the Sangam, high-pressure aquatic salesmen loom up on the placid
waters selling offerings such as coconuts for pilgrims to discard at
the confluence. Once abandoned, the offerings are fished up and sold
on to other pilgrims – a blatant if efficient form of recycling.
The sacred Sangam is the confluence
of three of the holiest rivers in Hindu mythology – Ganga, Yamuna and
the mythical Saraswati. At the Sangam, the waters of the Ganges and
the Yamuna can be distinctly seen to merge into one. It is during the
Kumbh/Ardh Kumbh that the Sangam truly comes alive … attracting the
devout from all across the country.
The holy Sangam is the site for
Annual Magha Mela/Ardh Kumbh/Kumbh Mela. Boats are available for
visitors.
Kumbh Mela
Hindus traditionally regard river
confluences as auspicious places, more so the the Sangam at Allahabad,
where the Yamuna and the Ganges meet the River of Enlightenment, the
mythical Saraswati. According to legend, Vishnu was carrying a kumbh
(pot) of amrita (nectar), when a scuffle broke out between the gods,
and four drops were spilled. They fell to earth at the four tirthas of
Prayag, Haridwar, Nasik and Ujjain (tirtha means "ford of a river" ,
a place where the devout can cross
from this finite world into divine celestial realms. The event is
commemorated every three years by the Kumbh Mela, held at each tirtha
in turn; the Sangam is known as Tirtharaja, the "King of Tirthas", and
its Mela, once every twelve years, is the greatest and holiest of all.
The Maha Kumbh Mela - the "Great"
Kumbh Mela - is the largest religious fair in India, attended by
literally millions of rejoicing the vast floodplains and river banks
adjacent to the confluence are overrun by pilgrims, tents, organized
in almost military fashion by the government, the local authorities
and the police. The mela is especially renowned for the presence of an
extraordinary array of religious ascetics - sadhus and mahants -
enticed from remote hideaways in forests, mountains and caves. Once
astrologers have determined the propitious bathing time or Kumbhayog,
the first to hit the water are legions of Naga Sadhus or Naga Babas,
the ferocious-looking members of the "snake sect" who cover their
naked bodies with ash, and wear hair in long dreadlocks. The sadhus,
who see themselves as guardians of the faith, approach the confluence
at the appointed time with all the pomp and bravado of a charging
army. The next Maha Kumbh Mela is due to take place in 2001.
Allahabad Fort
The massive fort built by emperor
Akbar in 1583 A.D., the fort stands on the banks of the Yamuna near
the confluence site. In its prime, the fort was unrivalled for its
design, construction and craftsmanship. This huge, majestic fort has
three magnificent galleries flanked by high towers. At present is used
by the army and only a limited area is open to visitors.The
magnificent outer wall is intact and rises above the water'’edge.
Visitors are allowed to see the Ashokan Pillar and Saraswati Kup, a
well, said to be the source of the Saraswati river and Jodhabai
Palace. The Patalpur temple is also here. So is the much revered
Akshaya Vat or immortal Banyan tree.
Patalpuri Temple
Within this underground temple,
inside the fort, lies the Akshaya Vat – or the immortal tree. Believed
to have been visited by Lord Rama, the temple was also seen by the
famous Chinese traveller and writer Hiuen Tsang during his visit to
this place.
Ashoka Pillar
This gigantic Ashoka pillar, of
polished sandstone stands 10.6 meters high, dating back to 232 B.C.
The pillar has several edicts and a Persian inscription of Emperor
Jahangir inscripted on it, commemorating his accession to the throne.
Akshaya Vat
The immortal tree within the
Patalauri temple, has found mention in the description of several
ancient scriptures, writers and historians. The tree stands in a deep
niche above an underground shaft, which is said to lead to Triveni.
Visitors need permission to visit the
Fort, Patalpuri Temple, Ashoka Pillar and AkshayaVat from Commandant,
Ordinance Depot, Fort, Allahabad. Phone: 6064738, Extn. 213.
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